The last time we were in Paris was in 2004; it’s hard to believe 22 years have passed! I was so excited!! This time I wanted to avoid the top tourist destinations (think the Louvre, Notre Dame, etc.) not only because we saw them last time, but the crowds have grown exponentially since then.

A few comparison pictures from our first trip to this trip.

Travel Tips

Don’t over plan! I would recommend planning 1-2 things each day. Paris is meant to be explored and to happen upon a wonderful hidden spot or have a serendipitous moment. I had one of those moments that I will never forget. As I was strolling along the Seine and browsing the bouquiniste’s (book stalls) one of the vendors asked me to watch his stall while he went to cool off at a fountain in a small park across the street. A dream for a librarian!
Paris is meant to be walked, but make sure to take advantage of the metro when places are far apart or you’re getting tired. It’s super easy to use, you can even download an app, preload tickets onto your phone and then scan your phone to enter the metro. One thing to note is you can only use your phone for one person, you cannot scan it multiple times for more people. I used Google Maps to plan which lines on the metro to use and it even tells you how to navigate the metro and signs to look for. I found the metro clean and safe, but if it’s crowded just make sure to be on the lookout for pickpockets.
If you are there during the busy summer season purchase timed tickets online in advance. I purchased mine the week before the trip and always chose first thing in the morning when they opened to avoid peak crowded times.
Paris is divided into 20 districts called arrondissements. I used those arrondissements to plan my days and tried to explore one arrondissement per day, sometimes adding a neighboring arrondissement depending on how close things were.

The Eiffel Tower

We were lucky to get to stay near the Eiffel Tower at the Hotel Ares. Although our room was very small (not surprising in a big city), we were extremely appreciative of the air conditioning since Paris has been suffering through multiple heat domes this summer. Not much has changed in Paris since our last visit, but one thing we did notice was that the base of the Eiffel Tower had a fenced in perimeter and only ticketed visitors could get below it. We climbed the Eiffel Tower last time we were there, up to the 2nd floor (we didn’t want to wait in line for the elevator to the 3rd), so this is one of the sites we decided to skip. The great thing about the Eiffel Tower is that there are so many views of it from around the city! No matter where you are it seems you can see it!

Musee d’Orsay

The Musee d’Orsay building itself is a work of art! The building was originally a train station that was built for the Paris Exposition in 1900 to transport visitors into the heart of the city. By the 1939 the building had become outdated for modern longer trains so were diverted to another station and the building was abandoned. There had been plans to demolish the building in the 1970’s, but there was public backlash against demolishing such an historic building so it was decided to convert it to a museum that focuses on 19th century art which includes the Impressionist Movement. Many of the works of art in the museum were donated from the Louvre’s collection.

***Dance at Bougival***
***by Pierre-Auguste Renoir***

The d’Orsay had a Renoir exhibition and I was pleasantly surprised to see this painting in the exhibition. I came to know it very well many years ago when I worked at the MFA Boston, so when I turned a corner and saw it I had to double check it was the same one, as Renoir painted a series of these. When I looked at the label it confirmed that it was on loan from the MFA and brought back many wonderful memories of my time working at the museum.

Rodin Museum

This was the one place that we visited in 2004 that I wanted to go back to. I chose to visit in the afternoon after my visit to the d’Orsay since it was on the way back to the hotel. I think two museums in one day was a bit much! The other thing I did not realize was the museum is not air conditioned, so by the time I arrived they were getting ready to close the 2nd floor because of the heat, so I felt rushed. The gardens are so beautiful but because of the heat it wasn’t as enjoyable as it could have been. In hindsight, visiting in the morning when it was cooler would have made for a more enjoyable experience. They do have a wonderful cafe in the gardens, so I definitely stopped for a cold drink and delicious treat.

Musee de l’Orangerie

Paris has so many amazing museums, but Monet’s water lilies at the l’Orangerie actually brought me to tears. Monet painted these specifically for the museum and were installed in two circular rooms. Monet wanted these rooms to be places of quiet reflection, which is almost impossible with the crowds. Security guards actually shushed people. The second room wasn’t as crowded; I don’t think some people realized there were two rooms. I can’t believe I managed to get a wide angle picture with no people in it!

Luxembourg Gardens

Paris gardens are great places to stop and relax. They have lots of chairs and I saw so many people reading, relaxing and just enjoying the gardens. whether it’s the large gardens like Luxembourg or the Tuileries or a smaller garden they are great places to people watch and enjoy the natural beauty of Paris.

Sacre-Coeur

Just like the Eiffel Tower, no matter where you are, the Sacre-Coeur seems to be in view. Located on the highest spot in Paris in the Montmartre area, which was a rural farming village that mined gypsum from the hills before it was incorporated into Paris as the 18th arrondissement in 1860. I hadn’t planned on going into the church, but surprisingly there was no line to get in, and it’s free.

Montmartre Cemetery

Pere-Lachaise Cemetery is the most famous cemetery in Paris (and well worth a visit), but we visited it last time we were there, so I decided to visit Montmartre Cemetery since it is near the Sacre-Coeur. I mostly had the place to myself, except for the cat I tried to befriend.

Musee Montmartre

The Musee Montmartre is a hidden gem off a quiet street. The museum was the home of many artists including Pierre-Auguste Renoir. The museum has a great exhibition on the history of the Montmartre area.

The Dome des Invalides & Napoleon’s Tomb

Pantheon

The Pantheon is the site of several famous graves including Victor Hugo and Marie Curie. It also has Foucault pendulum, which shows that the Earth turns on its axis.

Bookstores of Paris

The 5th arrondissement, or the Latin Quarter, is home to numerous bookstores including the famous Shakespeare & Co. I wish I had known about Shakespeare & Co. on our first visit, I suspect it would have been a much more enjoyable visit back then. The bookstore is known as the focal point of literary culture and for the numerous authors it has allowed to stay at the bookstore. The bookstore is small and the heat and crowds made it an unpleasant book shopping experience, but the history alone made it well worth a visit. Unfortunately they are very strict in terms of the number of people allowed in the store, so plan on waiting in line, and no photographs are allowed in the store.

The other bookstore I visited was The Abbey Bookstore which was even tinier than Shakespeare & Co.! I was surprised at the number of people at the store as well.

The thing I was looking forward to the most was strolling along the Seine and exploring the bouquinistes (book stalls along the Seine near Notre Dame) but unfortunately most of them seemed closed. This open air market dates back to the 16th century. The vendors sell used books, prints and other vintage items, but I did find some beautiful vintage postcards, which I purchased.